"In the realm of elegance, intimacy is key," remarks fashion designer Christian Dior, portrayed by Ben Mendelsohn, in a key scene of the latest Apple TV drama, "The New Look." The series, premiering today, chronicles the turbulent journeys of Dior and his Parisian couturiers during and after the Second World War, focusing on their personal travails and artistry. However, the series goes under scrutiny for its soft-pedaled handling of the narrative surrounding infamous French designer Coco Chanel (Juliette Binoche).
The drama begins with a parallel to HBO's critically panned "The Newsroom." A young audience member at Dior's 1947 "New Look" collection launch poses a question relating to Dior's wartime activities, ushering the audience into a series that examines, among other issues, the murky ethics of the fashion industry during the times of war.
Also featured in the narrative is Catherine Dior (Maisie Williams delivering a compelling performance), Dior's sister and a gutsy member of the French Resistance, whose gripping experiences during the war are starkly portrayed. Her post-war torment is another heart-rending arc, skillfully navigated by Williams.
Amid the principal narrative, the stark contrast in Coco Chanel's representation triggers debate. The series paints a picture that deviates greatly from the historical evidence regarding Chanel's rapports with the Nazis. Here, Chanel is depicted as a victim forced into cooperation with the Germans, a portrayal that is patently false when examined in the light of facts.
The Apple TV+ series gets some things right. First, it illustrates that the Wertheimer Brothers renegotiated Chanel's contract primarily to protect their financial interests. Second, it correctly notes Chanel's friendly ties with British Prime Minister Winston Churchill.
Despite the factual discrepancies, the performances from Binoche, Mendelsohn and Williams certainly make the drama worth watching. Mendelsohn portrays a sympathetic Dior, and Binoche's performance lends a chameleon-like charm to Chanel. However, the series fails to focus on the actual work of these iconic designers, and the unsteady camerawork doesn't help either.
Moreover, the series features John Malkovich in a commendable, albeit French accent-less, portrayal of Lucien Lelong. The show concludes with a hint at a reunion as Harper's Bazaar editor Carmel Snow, played by Glenn Close, arrives in Paris to decide who should carry the torch of fashion post-war. While Dior won that honor, the series seems to fall short.
"The New Look" is now streaming on Apple TV+.
