In 'Becoming Karl Lagerfeld', Hulu's latest biographical series, the matter of defining the German designer's distinct style is more complex than expected. Dubbed a "ready-to-wear mercenary" and a "boy wonder," his style resists precise categorization. Lagerfeld's own response suggests constant change as the essence of his style, casting himself as a work in progress.
The series, despite its meticulous exploration of Lagerfeld's life, fails to truly capture the essence of his persona and the world he inhabited. The image painted by creators Isaure Pisani-Ferry, Jennifer Have, and Raphaëlle Bacqué portrays Lagerfeld (played by Daniel Brühl) more as a strategic careerist than an artist.
'Lagerfeld’s journey in the French fashion industry portrays him as a crafty tactician, maneuvering through power dynamics and political games akin to a Targaryen in Westeros. Yet, despite this business-minded portrayal, the true passion Lagerfeld holds for his craft is apparent. His enchantment and absorption in the fashion world are tangible, presenting fashion as "a way of embodying the zeitgeist, of reflecting society's true nature."
The series also explores his nuanced social relationships, weaving a complex web of connections alongside the depiction of his career ascension. They highlight his tumultuous relationship with socialite Jacques de Bascher and his rivalry with ex-friend and designer, Yves Saint Laurent.
Despite these elements, 'Becoming Karl Lagerfeld' struggles to form a clear perspective. The narrative doesn't quite decipher what held Lagerfeld and de Bascher's turbulent relationship together, nor does it adopt a clear stance on the larger narrative. It fluctuates between presenting a biting drama, a nuanced character study, a tender romance, and a sobering lesson on the world of business.
Lagerfeld admits to concealing his true self daily, altering his age, and modifying his body to meet societal expectations, inferring a fear of being overlooked if he presented his true self. This constant concealment, while being a fitting life philosophy for Lagerfeld, manifests as a roadblock when attempting an in-depth television portrait of this multifaceted icon.
