German documentarian Reiner Holzemer, known for his work on fashion houses Dries Van Noten and Martin Margiela, turns his lens toward Thom Browne in this documentary titled "Thom Browne: The Man Who Tailors Dreams". Browne, celebrated for his recognizable aesthetic and mythical persona, deftly retains his creative spirit within his mind, allowing his designs to make the impact. His evocative collections, masterfully brought to life within the workrooms and on the runway, blend exquisite craftsmanship with a sense of eccentricity and humor, resulting in decidedly captivating creations.
Holzemer aptly captures the tension between personal introspections and professional revelation, a challenge that is addressed with a dramatic timelapse of the Palais Garnier auditorium in Paris. The auditorium is filled with cardboard cutouts, each clad in a signature Thom Browne gray suit, creating an extraordinary vision. The audacity of Browne's gender-fluid designs becomes evident with the arrival of two male models donning a blend of suit and pleated skirts, a look frequently sported by celebrities. The unfolding of the show is remarkably captured, offering unseen perspectives of fashion's most remarkable moments.
The film captures Browne's on-stage composure during his haute couture debut, setting him apart from other self-dramatizing designers. His calm demeanor and kindness serve as both an asset and a challenge within this film. However, the documentary lacks conflict, drama, and personal details, which sometimes lends it the feel of a promotional video. Despite these shortcomings, the documentary does a commendable job in chronicling Browne's journey from his origins in Allentown, PA, to his bold reinvention of the traditional men's grey suit.
Browne's steadfast dedication to his authentic style and relentless push against gender norms are refreshingly illuminated in this otherwise familiar narrative. Yet, the documentary lacks a critical voice, resulting in a narrative that ranges from admiration to outright praise. Despite this, the visual retrospective of Browne's two-decade long career is sure to appease fashion enthusiasts, combining tragedy and joy, innocence and experience, into a cohesive narrative.
While Browne's reticence might pose as a challenge to understanding the man behind the designs, his work does an excellent job of telling his story. His refusal to conform, his distinct vision, and his celebration of individuality within uniformity are intricacies that make his designs desirable, and despite its limitations, make this documentary a compelling watch.
